Food Drink

Follow the Brandywine Valley’s Unofficial Mushroom Soup Trail

Photos by Jim Graham

With Kennett Square’s Mushroom Festival on the horizon, there’s no better time to adventure along this mushroom soup trail.

Napa, California, has its wine trail. Madison, Wisconsin, has one devoted to artisan cheeses. There’s even a pie trail in Indiana. Yet, somehow, in Kennett Square—the self-proclaimed Mushroom Capital of the World—they haven’t made a mushroom soup trail official. For a 2018 issue of The Hunt, I forged my own trail, trying every version of the soup I could find in the Brandywine Valley.

There have been a few changes since, so I hit the trail again. And with Kennett Square’s 39th annual Mushroom Festival coming Sept. 7–8, it seemed like a great time to catch up.

Stop 1: Not many restaurants stay in business longer than 10 years. Portabellos of Kennett Square has stayed the course by attracting plenty of repeat customers with its impeccable service and excellent menu choices. It’s known for its roasted variation on the classic, with a touch of cream and a splash of Madeira wine. Chef Brett Hurlbert occasionally makes reishi and turkey tail mushroom versions. 108 E. State St., Kennett Square, (610) 925-4984.

A bowl of the signature mushroom soup from Portobellos of Kennett Square.

Stop 2: The thick, rich cream-style mushroom soup at Talula’s Table is some of the best I’ve tried. The slightly herbal blend is almost the consistency of a puree. Grab a seat at a communal table and pair your soup with a mini baguette. 102 W. State St., Kennett Square, (610) 444-8255.

Stop 3: At Two Stones Pub, they combine roasted crimini, shitake and oyster mushrooms in a delicious cream-based soup, topping it off with goat cheese and shitake “bacon.” One of the most unique soups on the trail, it comes with a slice of house-made whole-grain bread. 843 E. Baltimore Pike, Kennett Square, (610) 444-3940.

Stop 4: Made with local oyster, shitake, white and crimini mushrooms, The Naked Olive’s French-style velouté version grabbed me from first slurp. Pair it with the complimentary bread, olive oil and olives. 759 W. Cypress St., Kennett Square, (610) 644-2424.

Stop 5: The classically trained Anthony Young shows off his skills at Hank’s Place and with the creamiest mushroom soup on the trail, with ample chunks of fresh shitake, crimini and portabello mushrooms. 201 Birch St., Kennett Square, (610) 448-9988.

Stop 6: Longwood Gardens offers a notable cream-based mushroom soup at its 1906 Restaurant. You can find the same version in the Café, but minus shallots and chives. The recipe is free for the asking. 1001 Longwood Road, Kennett Square, (610) 388-1000.

Stop 7: The Gables at Chadds Ford’s hearty version features locally sourced shitake, maitake, crimini, white and portabello mushrooms and is topped with fragrant truffle oil. 423 Baltimore Pike, Chadds Ford, (610) 388-7700.

Stop 8: Tucked away in a former bank building, Twelves Grill & Cafe concocts one of my favorite soups in the area, its chunks of shitake and crimini swimming in a not-too-thick, not-too-creamy broth. They top it off with lump crab meat and truffle oil—an extravagant touch, to say the least. 10 Exchange Place, West Grove, (610) 869-4020.

And be sure to cap off any day on the trail with a stop at The Woodlands at Phillips Mushroom Farms. The extensive inventory at this shop includes maitake coffee, mushroom soup mixes, exotic fresh and dried mushrooms from the farm, and much more. And don’t miss the mushroom exhibit out back. 1020 Kaolin Road, (610) 444-2192.

A variety of fresh mushrooms from Phillips Mushroom Farms.

Related: White Wine Production Around the Brandywine Valley Is Thriving

Kurt Jacobson

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